Searching for the black toning of the cyanotype
All of the cyanotype toning formulas that I tried, completely bleaching the image in an alkali and re-developing it in a tanning agent for a long time, gave red-browned flat hues with a little dmax. I always obtained best results with long tanning bathes and a quick immersion in a diluted alkali, which gave a print with warm grey, brown or pink lights, while shadows are intense blue, slightly violet or black. A part of the original blue of the cyanotype is conserved in the final print, giving not only a cold hue to shadows, but also keeping relatively high the dmax, penalized by a complete alkaline whitening.
I think this is cyanotype toning big deal. The contrast drop in the middle tones can be corrected applying the right curve, the flattening of the high lights often creates a delicate effect of softness and lightness; but the loss of shadow density is a problem that still doesn’t have a solution. Certain images work even without blacks, all played on pastel colors, but others need the strength of intense and deep shadows.
Toning formulas that promise deep blacks, neutral lights and no paper dyeing (such as tea or concentrated tannic acid) are found in literature. In general they are variants of the procedure described at the beginning: alkali and tanning. The order of baths, the repetition or not of the successive immersions, ph control, intermediate washings and the tanning or/and alkali nature are the changeable elements. Those variations have a strong impact on final return, but they always have the same denominator: flatness of hues and dmax reduction. But I’m still searching for the magical combination that intensify a cyanotype rather than reducing it, turning the print into a palladium image infinitely less expensive.
Serendipity against severity
Yesterday night I made some attempts with some formulas. As usual, I didn’t follow a scientific method but a creative one, letting creativity and fate play their role. I tried in the past to formalize with strictness dark room tests, but I always failed. The thing is that some of the variables are hard to control, as temperature and environment humidity. Paper characteristics change from one stock to another and little variations are amplified. Moreover, because of the never-ending number of dissimilarities, it is required an infinite patience. It would be necessary to made them change one of a time, so I’d need thousands and thousands of tests and dark room days. Obviously, only printing Stouffer palettes to have the maximum rigor and the best ease of interpretation. This way, no image will be printed and life will be spent in taking boring tests. I’m sorry, but I’m a photographer and I’m not a lab technician. Life’s too short and all of the pictures I don’t take are images lost forever.
In certain cases I rather let variables evolve and print in an intuitive, not rigorous manner. Serendipity is a gift useful as much as meticulousness, while studying alternative techniques. By the way, a similar approach is found in many other areas. A sailboat can be managed because it gives back equilibrium; controlling every detail in a so difficult system or writing motion equations would be impossible.
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MauroBs
said, September 26, 2007 @ 11:54 AM :
Beh che dire?? Viva la serendipità.. una teoria che appoggio appieno sopratutto in campo fotografico…
Vai Fabusdr.. esaustivo e sperimentale come sempre..
molto utili tutti i tuoi consigli.
P.s. non è che hai un feed Rss così mi arrivano tutti i nuovi articoli in mail??
Bye
Fabiano Busdraghi
said, September 26, 2007 @ 12:07 PM :
Ciao Mauro,
grazie per la visita e l’apprezzamento. Il feed è nella colonna di destra sotto la voce “Meta”.
Loris Medici
said, October 10, 2008 @ 4:13 PM :
Hint: Change the tannic acid to gallic acid. You’ll get an image formed by “iron gall ink”. (See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron_gall_ink for more info about the ink…) Unfortunately it eates the paper in the long term.
BTW, I don’t believe you can get the delicacy of Pt/Pd by toning Cyanotypes to black (even if you manage to do it successfully); simply because the tonal progression is not that soft -> especially in the highlights. You can’t beat a Pt/Pd print’s highlights with any other process… Full stop.
As a last note: As you’re so into Cyanotype, I think you should definitely buy Mike Ware’s book “Cyanotype”.
Fabiano Busdraghi
said, October 12, 2008 @ 7:26 AM :
Hi Loris,
thank you very much for reading and commenting. In the past I read a lot of your posts on the Alt-photo-process mailing list and I know you are a great expert. I hope you will came back to Camera Obscura, I’m translating all the posts in English, but it takes a lot of time!
Thank you for the hint on the acid too. It is a shame that gallic acid is much more difficult to find than tannic acid.
It is sure that you can not make Pt/Pd prints with cyanotype, each technique has its own characteristics and beauty. But I’m not especially interested in the precise characteristics of the print, I print in Pd because it is black and relatively easy, in other cases I prefer carbon prints. If i can turn a cyanotype in a more neutral print with reasonable hight dmax it would be an interesting and cheap alternative to Pt/Pd. Not the same, but a technique that can satisfy my needs.
I don’t own the nice Mike Ware book, but I read it some years ago.
Loris Medici
said, October 13, 2008 @ 12:41 PM :
Ciao Fabiano,
It is by chance that I ended up here; I was looking for information about Massimo Attardi (and his method of printing on wood), it happens that you’ve made an interview with him…
Nice site and good effort; keep going -> will see the Italian section too… (My Italian is “cosi cosi” compared to my English - I’m not speaking it since my childhood…)
Regards,
Loris.
Loris Medici
said, October 13, 2008 @ 1:12 PM :
BTW, which Cyanotype formula do you use? IME, Ware’s cyanotype split toned with sodium carbonate + tannic acid gives nice dmax and close to neutral shadows…
Fabiano Busdraghi
said, October 28, 2008 @ 11:23 AM :
Hi Loris,
I use the classical Cyanotype. Ware’s cyanotype is a little bit more complex and toxic, and one thing i love about classical cyanotype is its semplicity and lack of toxicity.
But maybe to obtain black cyanotype it is the only possible way.
Thank you again for reading and your suggestions.
Fabiano