Kalé, by Myrto Papadopoulos
Following text and photos by Myrto Papadopoulos.
“The unchecked, without permit, encampment of wandering nomads Athinganoi-Gypsies, etc. in whatever region is prohibited. The lands for the organized encampments of wandering nomads must be outside the inhabited areas and in good distance from the approved urban plan or the last contiguous houses. Encampment is prohibited near archaeological sites, beaches, landscapes of natural beauty, visible by main highway points or areas which could affect the public health. Springs supplying drinking water, etc.”
Common Ministerial Decree of the Minister of Internal Affairs and the Minister of Health No A5/696/25.4-11.5.83, “Sanitary Provision for the Organised Relocation of Wandering Nomads”, Official Gazette B’ 243.
Looking at the map of Greece and the distance I had to cover to reach my destination, which was the small town of Didimoticho, I realised how long and tiring my journey would be. I didn’t know much about this small town. I only knew its geografical position some history to it and the stories I had heard about some ‘Troglodytes’ that lived there.
Didimoticho is a small town located in the eastern part of the Prefecture of Evros. The Evros Prefecture is the northernmost of the prefectures of Greece. It is located in the northeastern part of the region of Thrace, and borders with Bulgaria and Turkey at the Evros River, an historical and natural border between Europe and the east.
The town was under the rule of the Ottoman Empire and in the year 1361 it became the first capital of Europe sporting the first mosque in the Balkans. Today, Didimoticho has roughly nine thousand inhabitants out of which approximately two thousand are Greek Muslim gypsies and another even smaller minority, are the immigrants of Greek origin from the former Soviet Republics.
Didimoticho, today, finds itself right on the expanding edge of Europe. For example, just last year, Bulgaria entered the European Community as a full European member state, while Turkey is a candidate. This geographical crossroad, where different cultural identities meet is the subject of my project.
I would like to approach this subject by exploring, understanding and photographing a very particular microcosm composed of just a few families, those of Muslim background.
The roots of these people are lost and there are different versions regarding their origins. One of these versions says that this specific minority group are the descendants of an Egyptian reserve army of Ibrahim, who passed through the area during the Ottoman Empire. This is based on the fact that the characteristics of these people are not Indo-European. The Greek government has tried to assimilate them into the society by naming them Greek Muslim-Rom, so they can be provided with the actual support they need.
